If there was one thing worth doing at this time was to sit down and listen to all the stories of the pilgrims around me. The whole area in front of the cathedral was packed by hundreds of pilgrims who had walked a long way just to come here at Santiago de Compostela.
The pouring rain was not strong enough to disperse them away. Nothing will dampen their spirits. They survived and conquered their fears. They all came from different directions, nationalities from all over the world, either by walking or by bike, fulfilling their promises of doing the Camino de Santiago.
Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) is one of the most important pilgrimages in Europe. While the proverbial saying about all roads leading to Rome was true, it was also reputed in the olden days that all roads lead to Santiago de Compostela. Indeed, with the throng of well-wishers and pilgrims coming from different parts of the world, Camino de Santiago is slowly gaining its ground as a very important religious journey to the catholic community.
Santiago de Compostela
The Way of St James traced back its origins at around 9AD. A hermit living in the cave saw a bright light emanating from the ground and soon discovered the tomb of the apostle. Words travelled all over Europe and thereafter groups of people peregrinated to reach the town presently called now as Santiago de Compostela.
The town grew bigger and houses were built around the tomb. A small chapel was built and demolished thereafter for a bigger one. Still, it couldn’t accommodate the tons of pilgrims coming into the city that King Alfonso of Spain ordered to build a bigger Cathedral. The Moors came and destroyed the church but the occupation was shortlived. The Crusades came and drove the Moors away. It was for this reason that so many religious relics were kept and protected in this little town of Santiago de Compostela.
The Apostle
St James found himself a home in this region of Galicia. He preached the gospel and converted the population into Christianity. This was, after all, the marching order from Jesus Christ. When He rose from the dead, He commanded all his disciples to spread out and tell the people about the good news. St James did his duty and built a church in this side of the world. But when he returned to the present day Palestine, he was arrested and condemned to death. Two of his loyal companions stole his body and sailed out into the Mediterranean and brought him back to Galicia. They gave him a proper burial and continued his work of preaching the gospel. This was around 3AD.
Among the many saints who also have travelled and performed the Camino was St Francis of Assisi. A beautiful story about his Camino was that St Francis lived in a poor man’s house for months. When St Francis was about to leave, he told the poor man to build a church for him. He told him that a treasure full of gold was to be found on a specific place that would be used in setting up the church. The poor old man did what he was told and went to the nearby monastery to buy a piece of land. Truth be told, the poor man was able to build a church but he didn’t own the land. It was leased to him until the day he died.
The Pilgrimage
For so many hundred years, Santiago de Compostela continued to invite pilgrims from all over the world.
There are three routes nowadays that lead to Compostela. The first one is from France, a distance of approx. 700kms to reach Santiago. They call this one as the French way. The second one is what they call as the English way. This one starts from the southernmost part of Spain, say; Sevilla and walking up north to Santiago de Compostela. The third one which is slowly gaining some popularity is the Portuguese way. This commences from the southernmost part of Portugal up to the north and crossing the border to Santiago.
As times are changing, so are the ways in getting there. A new way of doing the Camino is by bicycle. The camino by bike could be a pilgrimage version of the Tour de France. The only difference is that no cameras are following you while you take the road less travelled by. Not only that you have to be physically fit but spiritually too as the road could be treacherous not only for the tires but also to your soul. Of course, there is no comparison really but doing the camino in itself has nothing to do with how strenuous the walk you did but the spirituality behind it.
One particular biker caught my attention. He was alone. He stopped in front of the Cathedral and lovingly took in the grandeur of the edifice. The Cathedral definitely is a work of art. It so massive that the steeple is close to touching the heavens. The most early part of the Cathedral was built in the true Romanesque style. The façade was built decades after, taking in the Gothic movement at that time.
The lone biker was teary-eyed. He kneeled in front of the Cathedral and poured his heart out. He was crying while making the sign of the cross. I was moved. It must have been an ordeal and definitely not an easy task to come here.
The lone biker was just one of the hundred of pilgrims that did the Camino. Pilgrims are very easy to be spotted; so they say. They all carry a stick, a shell, walking boots and raincoat. And in addition, according to my local friend; they should be limping too. A friendly joke just to show you the distance that manifested on the physical body.
My Little Camino
I first heard of Santiago de Compostela when I was in college. We were so busy arranging pictures for an exhibit about Spain and its cities. The church picture had left an imprint on my brain. It was such a magnificent sight. Soon, in the not-so-distant future, I encountered this place again in 2007. And like a recurring dream, it has manifested again through discussions among friends and acquaintances.
I was in La Coruna at that time but somehow the tour to Santiago was already sold out. I begged to no avail. Looking back, I realized I wasn’t ready at that time. Camino didn’t ring a bell to my consciousness. It was only by accident that I was listening to a couple talking about their camino experience that made me realize what I was missing for so long in my life. I prayed so hard to God to bring me back to Santiago and if it happens, I’ll make sure to get inside the church.
Getting inside the church was not a piece of cake. On an ordinary day like this and raining heavily, I waited for almost an hour before reaching the gate. Everybody wants to attend the afternoon 12 o’clock pilgrim’s mass. My umbrella surrendered to the heavy rains and winds brought the rain from different sides. I could feel the water dancing inside my shoes. My pants were so wet and I kept arranging my shawl. The line was not moving and I was wondering if they’ve closed the gates. I raised my body up and tried to assess where the line was going. My brain was doing a quick math whether if it was still feasible to continue the wait. It seems that I was in the middle and going back from where I started was the same to the distance I was heading to. I decided to stay put and endured the continued onslaught of the rain.
The rain is just an ordinary thing here in the region. Historians posited that the weather was one of the reasons why the Moors did not really fight so hard for Santiago. They couldn’t stand the wet weather. That’s why every pilgrim must be ready with a raincoat or anything that will keep them dry at all times. In fact, an umbrella or a raincoat are just two of the famous souvenir items here in Compostela.
The Church
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela can be seen in a mile or two-mile radius. It is such a towering beauty. This beautiful edifice has withstand lots of wars and reconstructions. The moment I went inside, the beautiful altar piece stole my attention. As the mass was ongoing, my eyes followed the contours of the ceilings and slowly looked around my bearings inside and back again on the ceiling, and again on the altar. Everything was ornately designed. I felt like acting on a film, moving in a slow motion, while the camera panned from the priest to the small, brown asian guy, trying to find his spot in a fully congested church.
Inside were hundreds of pilgrims. Tired and weary, they all had a prayer book and from what I can deduced was a reflection booklet. While listening to the priest and singing, their eyes reflected hope, love and peace. This was the culmination of their journey. To attend the mass will be forever imprinted on their minds. Some were lying on the floor while others held hands with their companions.
I wanted to hug them. I wanted to tell them how much I admired their courage. Indeed, change is inevitable and definitely a wonderful thing for those willing to embrace it. I stood among them. Gratitude and submission to His will flowed from my heart. Though it may seemed easy, but coming here to Santiago was almost an impossible feat for someone who used to live in a small town, almost 10,000kms away.
My hometown
Taft, Eastern Samar is my hometown. For those not familiar with my country, this is one of the small towns, down south of the Philippines, facing the Pacific Ocean. Every 25th of July we celebrate the town’s fiesta in honor to the patron saint, St James. It is the biggest event of the year in this side of the earth. And looking back, I’d only realized how naïve I was to the origins of our beloved patron saint.
St James has been with us since I was born. I grew up, along with my friends and classmates, celebrating his sainthood but never fully understood how he lived. Aside from the different legends how St James protected our town, I knew nothing about his life other than him being one of the disciples. But with my visit to Compostela, I learned so much about his sacrifice and his undying faith in God. I, too, was forever changed and will look now at my town’s fiesta with a renewed faith. A lot more different from what I used to. And every 25th of July will be a moment of reflection and celebration that once in my life, I was tasked to travel and preach the word of God.
This year was the holy year as the 25th of July falls on a Sunday. This year commanded the highest number of pilgrims ever recorded in Santiago de Compostela. Though, one can do the Camino any year but everybody seemed to have waited for the holy year. And they say that the next holy year would be in ten years or so. But I wont wait for that. I’m writing this memory as a prelude to my camino. My plan is in the next two years. Money, time and courage are some of the things I have to work out soon.
God’s immense love
My little camino had opened so much in my life. I may not have walked over 100kms but I could say that I had been traveling for years now. Traveling in both the literal and figurative sense of the word. The visit had opened my heart and soul to the immense love and power of God. This has been an answered prayer. It waited some time and prepared me to be the person I am today.
As I went up the staircase in the main altar of the church and hugged the body of St James, I forgot all the prayer requests that I have prepared. I didn’t know what to say. I just stood there and hugged him. A small voice of gratitude came from the inside. This was more than what I have requested for and I could never express my gratitude enough.